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Asking questions is a great way to learn more about gardening. Check at some of the most commonly asked questions Joe has received. If you can’t find what you’re looking for, e-mail your question to us.
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"Snow dust" on yews
HELP! This week on the news, the weatherman was referring to "snow dust" in the garden. We chuckled. Then today, as we were removing some overgrown yews, low and behold...a great cloud of white dust appeared. What is snow dust?
Well, this was a new one for me! Snow dust is a term that I had not heard before and have not been able to find anywhere; however, I suspect that it refers to powdery mildew, a fungus infection that can attack many different kinds of plants. The fungus can live over even a harsh winter in fallen leaves and other plant debris under the plant. In the spring, the spores shoot up into the air. When you were cleaning out the yews, you probably disturbed the fungus and that resulted in the cloud of white dust.
During the growing season, powdery mildew is a white coating on leaves and other plant surfaces; you can easily rub it off. It does not seem to affect some plants, while on others, it may cause stunting of growth and in some very susceptible plants, death. Good gardening practices can keep the fungus under control. It thrives in wet, humid weather, so good air circulation is a must. Prune your shrubs for an open structure that allows for good air circulation to keep the interior dry and inhospitable to fungal growth. Clean fallen leaves and other plant debris from under you plants in the fall and destroy them. That will reduce the number of spores that can infect the plants during the growing season.
I am still not certain that your weather person was referring to powdery mildew spores when he used the term "snow dust", but that is probably what you encountered under your yews. If you ever hear someone explain the term, please let me know.
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A fast way to remove tree stumps?
I'm STUMPED by a problem in my yard! I "had" two big trees (80+ ft tall) that were moving the foundation of my house...so...we had to bring them down. The trunks were too close to the house to grind so now we have two G-NORMOUS tree trunks jutting out of the ground!They are both 25+ inches in diameter and I am looking for a cost effective way to speed the decay process and bury them for good. Any ideas?
There really isn't a FAST way to get rid of stumps that big. I always had my stumps ground down. I think the going rate was around a dollar an inch of width. But, if the stump is too tall, the grinder won't be able to get it down and out.
The only think I know of is a stump removal chemical you pour into the stump after drilling holes in it to expedite the rotting. This may or may not work. I wish I had better news for you but the fastest way is to make sure you've cut it down as close as you can to the ground and hire a stump grinder person to come shave it down well below grade.
You might try this link which gives a pretty good explanation of the nuances of stump“removal”.
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A good mix of plants for a berm
We have approx. 300 ft of road frontage where we'd like to create a berm to block out road traffic. The yard contains a lot of red clay to the point when it rains, the rain lies on top of the grass making a mess. I'd like a new look. What do you suggest for a proper mixture for a berm? I'd also like to include reworking the yard as money permits.
The berm will create the mounded area to plant into. The nicest and most natural looking berms include a mix of evergreens and conifers, trees and shrubs. Consider the following when making your selection:
Use large leaved trees to help block noise and view. Magnolias are a
classic example.
Consider the exposure and select tough, drought tolerant plants. If this is
a full sun area, there are many hollies (Nellie R. Stevens comes to mind)
that have a very nice form, are tough, and look very nice year round.
Conifers add a nice variety to the dark glossy foliage of magnolias and
hollies. You can use Leyland Cypress, Cryptomeria, Cedar and pine. I'd mix
in a variety.
Include shrubs as well. Again, evergreen plants are nice but you can add a
lot of interest and color with shrubs of all sorts. I'd be sure to include
some varieties of Viburnum as well as Oak Leaf hydrangea and Rhododendron.
The key is to make whatever you plant look natural. Plant in groupings of odd numbers and be sure to include layers. Don't overcrowd even though it is very tempting to do so to. The plants will fill in quickly and they need light and air circulation to look their best and remain healthy long term.
You'll need a way to make sure these plants get the proper irrigation until they become established...especially if you plant this summer! I'd wait until fall if possible when the temps are cooler and there is less stress on the plants.
Finally, whenever you plant, be sure to put down plenty of mulch. This will help retain the soil and provide valuable protection to the plants and trees.
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A skunk is feeding on grubs in my lawn
I have a skunk tearing up my front yard grass. I put down some Grub X to kill the grubs. How can I get this skunk to stop killing my grass?
Short of trapping and removing the skunk it sounds as though you are doing all you can. Eliminating a pest's food source is the best way to send them elsewhere. Give the grub control some time to work and see if the skunk will move on. If not, check to see if trapping or killing skunks is prohibited in your area of the country for it may be illegal. Since you are dealing with wildlife there is no guarantee another skunk may not take its place.
Deterrent sprays will work temporarily but need to be re-applied. There are also battery operated motion activated water sprayers that will scare them off.
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Acetic acid
I’m looking for a source for 20% acetic acid content vinegar to be used as an herbicide. Can you help?
I know people that have found this at Lowe's. Also, try Gardens Alive (www.gardensalive.com) and Peaceful Valley Farm Supply (www.groworganic.com). Good luck
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Acorus gramineus "Ogon" (Japanese sweet flag)
I have lots of a lovely ornamental grass called Acorus gramineus
'Ogon.' It's been in the ground for about four years now and has created huge yellow-green clumps. I need to know how to maintain it (when and if I should cut it back) and whether or not I should be digging it up to divide.
No need to cut it back, but Japanese sweet flag as it is commonly known, will appreciate a good dividing every few years, like most perennials. It’s best to propagate by dividing it in spring, and then let the new divisions get established in a pot before replanting outdoors. However, this is a tough plant, and you may choose to replant directly into the garden and skip the container step. Either way, Acorus loves plenty of water; so don’t skimp on the irrigation.
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Agressive roots on Emerald Green Arborvite
I recently planted small emerald cedars in a row right in front of my house...they are only 2 feet tall and I plan to keep them trimmed to a max height of 5-6 feet...my neighbours are worried that as they grow, the roots will affect all the foundation and underground piping (i.e. water and sewer)...is this a common problem with this type of tree? Thanks in advance for your time and answer.
Emerald Green Arborvitae has a shallow but dense fibrous root system that usually does not spread beyond the tree's drip line. It is not known to have an aggressive root system that is likely to disrupt a home foundation or invade drain pipes. Of course all trees need water and their roots can grow into any sewer line that has a crack, but arborvitaes are not among those trees listed as most likely to cause problems. In fact, arborvitaes are commonly recommended as foundation plantings in certain situations.
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Amaryllis
Can you plant Amaryllis in your garden? If so, when?
You can plant Amaryllis outdoors after the risk of the last spring frost has past. Amaryllis will grow safely year round in zone 7b or warmer. Anything cooler, and the bulbs should be dug up and brought in for storage over the winter. At that point, remove foliage as it browns and keep stored in a cool dark place, like a basement. They are not too picky about their soil as long as it is well drained. You may even want to mound the soil up high to ensure this. Place the bulbs in the ground so the top is just sticking above the surface. A sunny spot with afternoon shade is the best place to plant these. You should have flowers in 6-8 weeks. Remember to dig up bulbs before frost for zones cooler than 7b.
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Angel's Trumpet - Pruning
I have an Angel's Trumpet (Solanaceae) that is 2 years old, and it grew to 5’ tall last summer. Should I prune it back and how low? It has 2 main trunks.
Spring is a great time to prune your Angel's Trumpet because it blooms on new wood. They can handle aggressive pruning, so prune to the desired size. It grows back fast. They are usually pruned to control size and shape. Unless you're cutting back to the main trunks, I'd prune to promote the shape you desire first, and that will dictate the new size somewhat.
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Annuals - Removing
How do I keep annual plants from returning?
This is usually not a problem. By definition, “annuals” complete their life cycle in one growing season. The original plant does not survive from year to year. However, you may be getting new plants emerging from the original mother plant. These new plants are from seed that was produced in the previous season. The best way to keep this from occurring, is to make sure the plants do not grow to the point where they produce seed. This means that you will have to remove the plant before then, or pick the flowers from the plant, before they have time to produce viable seed. This process is known as “dead-heading.” The added benefit of deadheading is that you’ll get an extended bloom production, as the plants continue to send out new flowers. It’s a bit labor intensive, but I’d say well worth the effort.
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